Khiva is known as a museum city. Indeed, in other historical centers, say, in Samarkand, visitors move from one historical monument to another situated in the modern urban environment. Regrettably, a logical link between them is missing. Khiva is quite another matter. It has experienced a lesser amount of modern human influence than Samarkand and Bukhara, where people, pursuing a sort of good purpose, restore ancient historical and architectural monuments, in a bid to impart a more presentable appearance to them, while unwittingly blowing the dust of time off them.



What advantageously distinguishes Khiva from these towns is that it remains in the context of antiquity. And first of all, this applies to Ichan-Kala, a \"town in town\", the oldest part of Khiva surrounded by mighty fortress walls. Anyone approaching them can see many ancient burial places there, which served from time out of mind as talismans believed to protect the town from conquerors, who, according to its denizens, had enough fear and trepidation to defile the graves under no circumstances. On entering one of the four gates facing directly the North, South, East and West, you immediately become enveloped with the inimitable spiritof Khiva, which has preserved its primordial image.

In a trice, you feel plunged in antiquity thanks to the fact that numerous minarets, mosques, madrasahs etc. form a single ensemble together with the town\'s narrow side-streets, passages, blind alleys, all paved with stone and polished with time and the great number of feet that stepped them during many centuries. And small wonder, tourists usually find it difficult to differentiate between social and museum phenomena and ancient artifacts. Moreover, modern buildings, including dwelling houses, stores, restaurants, workshops etc. go well together with marvelous historical and architectural monuments, such as the Kunay Ark castle, the Ak Mosque, the Seid Alauddin Mausoleum, the Kaltaminor and Islam Hoja Minarets, the Tash Khauli Palace, the Tomb of Three Saints - Uchavlia and others. Some of them, such as the Juma Mosque, remain operational up to now. All the structures available in Khiva, whether ancient, old or modern, are perceived as a single whole, with present-day edifices only setting off the venerable aura of antiquity.

The history of Khiva is astonishing. According to architectural evidence, it was in existence somewhere between the 6th and the 8th centuries. In the middle of the 16th century, it became the capita] of the Khiva Khanate and for more than three centuries was regarded as one of the major centers of Moslem religion. The town was ruled by as many as 34 khans, each of whom has left his own trace in the history of Khiva. There were wise and brutal rulers, courageous conquerors and bright enlighteners among them. And one of them has remained in people\'s memory as a ruler, who governed half a day only. Having learned about his appointment as a khan of Khiva, he couldn\'t cope with emotions that flooded him and his heart collapsed. Islam Hoja had a reputation for being the most progressive ruler of Khiva. At the beginning of the 20th century he opened a school for a native population, built a hospital and a head post-office, which, apart from the school, have survived in Khiva down to the present time.

Interestingly, almost each monument in Khiva has not only its own history, but is cloaked in a poetic, romantic or mythological legend. Take, as an example, the history of the Kaltaminor Minaret. Its inexpressible, majestic beauty, according to its author\'s intention, should combine with the great dimensions of the monument, reaching more than 100 meters in height. But there were some \"well-wishers\", who suggested an idea to the Bukhara emir that such a height was a sort of encroachment on his grandeur. And a ban on the construction of such a tall edifice followed immediately. Islam Hoja was killed for disobedience, Legend has it that the bricks used in construction contained a warning inscribed on them: \"They want to kill you!\" But builders courageously continued their work. To rescue the ruler, birds picked him up and carried away to the skies. Since then the tower stays unfinished. And such legends, myths and true stories abound. Among them are a madrasah, where Djavaharlal Neru studied, and the currently functioning bathhouse.

In spite of its respected age, Khiva creates an impression of a warm, comfortable and living town. Much of this impression is attributed to its denizens and numerous guests, whose numbers show no sign of abating even at the peak of Uzbekistan\'s sultry summer. The step of civilization, as the course of history, is inexorable. And one would like it to be more reasonable: zealously preserving, up to the last pebble, our unique and wonderful history, something that cannot be replaced by any technology, comfort or modern conveniences. (Source: Business Partner.uz newspaper)